The neighbors keep trying to buy the bug. Now people on Mods are trying too. So I figured it was time to close the question for good and put the thing on plates.
Felix came by and told me to just ride with him to the DMV and get it done. Turned out to be a place buried deep inside some office building, no line at all. A couple of minutes and we walked out with plates.
One thing left. The brakes.
The bug stops too well right now. Stops like it hit a wall. Which sounds like a compliment until you look at the front right and see the pad slid out of the caliper and the pistons are biting bare into the rotor. Metal on metal. That's the wall. That's why she plants.
New pads. And while I'm in there, the rear lights get done too.
A working journal of one Beetle.
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